House Rules

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Spartakos
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House Rules

#1 Post by Spartakos »

Character Generation:
  • Standard classes are pretty much as usual (Cleric, Fighter, Magic-user, Thief, Dwarf, Elf, Halfling). I have custom rules for Dwarf and Elf clerics, Dwarf/Elf/Halfling thieves, and Gnomes (which are sort of fighter/illusionist/thieves).
  • DO NOT USE THE "ROLL STATS" option. Instead, make the character without rolling stats, and make twelve rolls of 3d6 on the die roller. Pick the best 6, and assign them as you like. That's your dude.
  • Add your Cha modifier to your roll for starting gold (so if you have 18 Cha, you would roll 3d8+3 x 10 for your gold).
  • When you roll HP at 1st level, you can reroll if it isn't at least half maximum (2 for wizards, 4 for fighters, etc)
  • Use the gear list from LL, except for weapons and armor; I use custom lists for those (see below). You can buy pretty much anything at start (it's assumed you already owned it); afterward, the Keep will have limited gear; special orders will have to come from Carlisle or Galax and may require extra time/money.
  • Alignment works like this:
    • If you're Lawful, you keep your oaths, prefer consensus, and don't like loose cannons.
    • If you're Chaotic, you do what you feel like, prefer individualism, and don't like people telling you what to do.
    • If you're Good, you grant quarter, don't kill innocents, and look out for the welfare of others.
    • If you're Evil, you kill whoever you feel like, and look out for number one.
    • If you're Neutral, you are somewhere between the extremes. You don't 'believe in balance' or any of that crap.
    • There are no alignment languages.
    • Animals and similar creatures aren't Neutral; they don't have any alignment.
  • For backgrounds, take a look at the map and pick where your character is from. You can use any location on it, and feel free to invent new towns and details. If you want to be something off the wall, just clear it with me first so we can make sure it makes sense in context. I am open-minded about character origins.
    The default ethnicity in this area is Coastlander, which translates to "generic European medieval". You can be of any coloration of hair/eyes/skin; Coastlanders have intermarried and interbred with people from all over the world. Some other established nationalities/ethnicities:
    • Stornlanders are folk who dwell along the river Storn, to the south (think Eastern European)
    • Dunadan are folk from the Kingdom of Dunador, to the southeast (think Anglo-Saxon with hints of French)
    • Eoran are people from the County of Eor, to the nearest east/southeast (think Anglo-Saxon/Welsh)
    • Vanir are folk from Vanaheim, northwards of this map (think Scandinavian)
    • Lamorans are a barbaric, fair people from the Wildlands of Lamora, east of the Great Northern Swamp (sort of like vikings/celts crossed with Cherokee indians). The Keep is set on the borders with Lamora.
    • Galdari are from the Free Cities of Galdar, southwards of this map; Varetta is one of these cities (think feudal Japan crossed with Spain, with hints of the Mongols)
    • Shining Folk are from the Shining Lands and the Chalice, a great gulf to the south; set in the Chalice are the Five Jewel Cities (think Persian/Arabian Nights)
The Gnome class
Gnomes are a small people, similar in height to halflings, but slimmer and more wiry, as a rule. Their skin is typically in earth tones, from tan to a deep brown, and they tend to have many wrinkles. Gnomes usually grow beards, sometimes mustaches as well; their hair is usually in shades of black, white, or grey (often silver or steel-colored). Their eyes are dark, quick, and piercing.
Gnomes fight as thieves and save as halflings. They can wear up to scale armor, but do not use shields; they use an assortment of small, one-handed weapons. Gnomes have 60' infravision, and very keen eyesight; they can detect secret doors with the same chance as elves (1-2 on 1d6).
Being quick, agile, and clever with both hands and wits, Gnomes can use some thieves abilities; they can Pick Pockets, Move Silently, Hide in Shadow, Detect Noise, and Read Languages as a thief of equal level.
Gnomes are innately skilled in the magic of trickery, illusion, and enchantment. They study magic from a young age (usually from parent to child); while they cannot master as many magicks as elves or magic-users, they are better at some kinds, and know a number of unique and potent spells. Gnomes use spellbooks just like magic-users and elves, and scribe their spells in the same mystic script.

Miscellaneous House Rules:
  • No XP bonus for high stats. Instead, if you don't have at least one score of 13+, you get a 10% bonus to earned XP.
  • Increase carrying capacity by 10 lb. x Str bonus (for unencumbered; extrapolate for higher categories)
  • Cha uses the same bonuses as every other ability score (+1 for 13-15, +2 for 16-17, +3 for 18)
  • Only Fighters score double damage on a 20.
  • Thieves Abilities: at 1st level, Thieves (and only Thieves) distribute % points equal to Int score to Pick Locks, Find/Remove Traps, and Read Languages. Distribute % points equal to Dex score to Pick Pockets, Move Silently, and Hide in Shadows.
  • A character who wears no armor gets +5% to Climb Walls, +10% to Pick Pockets and Move Silently, and +15% to Hide in Shadows.
  • Magic-users, Elves, and Gnomes begin with two (+ Int bonus) 1st level spells, and one 2nd level spell in their books; add 1 spell each level, of any level they can cast. READ MAGIC IS NOT NECESSARY.
  • I made a custom spell list for Clerics, changing some things around; elf and dwarf clerics replace some spells with others.
  • Most magic-user spells are the same; I've changed only Sleep and Magic Missile so far (plus eliminating Read Magic).
    • Sleep affects 2d4 HD of monsters (instead of 2d8) and all targets get a Save vs. Spells to avoid falling asleep.
    • Magic Missile creates 1 missile at 1st, and another every 3rd level (so 2 at 3rd, 3 at 6th, 4 at 9th, etc).
  • Death & Dying; if you reach 0 HP, roll 1d4
    1. You are dead, the end.
    2. You will die in 1d4 rounds if you don't receive magical healing; if you do, recover 1 HP in 6d4 hours
    3. You will die in 2d6 rounds if you don't receive aid; if you do, recover 1 HP in 3d4 hours
    4. You will die in 2d6 rounds if you don't receive aid AND fail a Save vs. Death; if you do (either one), recover 1 HP in 1d4 hours
    Anybody at 0 HP but not dead can be killed by a single blow of a weapon (no roll needed)
  • Parrying; if you don't attack, add +1 to AC for that round (+2 if you have a shield)
  • Friendly Fire; if you use a missile weapon against a target that is engaged in combat with others (enemies or allies), then the following will happen on a miss:
    • roll a random target from among those engaged (larger or smaller creatures will have proportionally greater or lesser chances of being targeted).
    • if the random target was the initial target, no result (a clean miss)
    • if the random target was anyone else, roll an attack against that target; this attack is as a 0th level man and with no Dex bonus; any bonuses from magic (spells, magic arrow, etc) or circumstances (from the rear, etc) will apply. If this misses, no further effect.
  • Hit Points; At 1st level, must be at least half maximum; at all other levels, a d6 HD rerolls 1's, a d8 HD rerolls 1's and 2's
  • Flaming Oil does 2d4 damage in the 1st round, and 1d4 in the 2nd round.
  • Holy Water does 2d6 damage against corporeal undead.
  • Energy Drain; instead of draining a level, it drains 1 hit die of HP, permanently. Slaying the undead and mixing its ashes with holy water and drinking it will restore the lost HP.
  • Ability Advancement; At each level, roll 3d6 for each ability score; if the roll is higher than the score, increase that score by 1 point. If a character raises a level and NO scores improve randomly, he may choose any 1 score that is less than 13, and increase it by 1 point
  • Experience; XP will be awarded for treasure returned to the Keep, and monsters slain. Monsters captured or put to flight are worth 1/2 XP; if later killed, the other 1/2 will be gained.
    Add a bonus to a monster's XP value equal to its HP x its HD.
  • Identifying magic items;
    • Scrolls and other magical writings can be automatically identified by a character capable of wielding said magicks; scrolls can be employed immediately, for casting (transcribing a scroll to a spellbook is a lengthier process).
    • Anyone who takes a sip from a potion will be given a clue as to its function.
    • Anyone wearing a suit of magic armor can determine its base bonus, but not any special powers or properties it might have.
    • Anyone handling a magic weapon (appropriate for their class) and taking a few swings with it can determine its base bonus; any additional bonuses will be revealed when used against the appropriate foe (for instance, if a sword +1, +3 vs. lycanthropes is used to fight a wererat, the higher bonus will become apparent to the wielder). Special properties or powers will not be revealed.
    • Anyone studying a wand, staff, or rod (appropriate for their class) for 1d6 hours can determine its primary function and how to activate it; additional functions (if any) can be revealed with further study. ALTERNATELY, anyone can brandish such a device and attempt to randomly activate its powers; this will cause the device to function (randomly, if it has multiple functions), having the appropriate effect and using charges normally. Charges will not be revealed by either of these methods.
    • Anyone putting on a wearable miscellaneous magical item is likely to have clues to its powers revealed to the wearer within 1d6 hours.
    • A magic-user or cleric can attempt to determine the properties of any magic item through study or prayer (respectively). The chance of discovering useful information is a percentage equal to the character's Int or Wis score (respectively), plus 5% per level, plus 1% per day of study (cumulative).
  • Hunting & Foraging; these are the chances of acquiring food in the wild. If you have a 16 or greater in Dexterity, you can add 1 to your chance of success at hunting. If you have a 16 or greater in Wisdom, you can add 1 to your chance of success at foraging. Hunting and/or foraging can be attempted by EACH party member, but reduces travel speed to half.
    • With bow/crossbow: 1 in 6 chance of large game (1 days rations for 1d6+1 men)
    • With sling: 1 in 6 chance of small game (1 days rations for 1d3 men)
    • With thrown javelin/spear: 1 in 8 chance of large game (1 days rations for 1d4+1 men)
    • With thrown dagger/axe/hammer: 1 in 8 chance of small game (1 days rations for 1d2 men)
    • With none of these: 1 in 6 chance of foraging 1 days ration for 1 man.

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Spartakos
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Re: House Rules

#2 Post by Spartakos »

List of Classes (with HD, arms/armor, special abilities noted)

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Re: House Rules

#3 Post by Spartakos »

Experience Tables

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Re: House Rules

#4 Post by Spartakos »

Arms & Armor List

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Re: House Rules

#5 Post by Spartakos »

Cleric Spells

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Re: House Rules

#6 Post by Spartakos »

Gnome Spells

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Re: House Rules

#7 Post by Spartakos »

Rules for animals:

DOGS
Lots of players want to use dogs in their adventuring career, often as a cheap, loyal replacement for a man-at-arms. While I allow use of dogs, I rule a bit more strictly than many DMs.

Drawbacks to dogs:
  • Noise: dogs bark; most dogs will do this any old time, but even well-trained dogs will bark if feeling threatened, afraid, or if they encounter something that seems unusual or stimulating to them.
  • Fighting: dogs will bite, but their main goal is either to quickly kill smaller enemies, or drive off or flee from larger ones. Further, dogs are hesitant to fight with unusual creatures. Unless trained to attack, most dogs will not attack anything other than normal animals or man-sized humanoids, except in self-defense.
  • Food: dogs require the same amount of food as men; they can eat fresh rations (meat) or trail rations (jerky). Most dogs can be distracted by fresh food or a juicy bone.
  • Fears: all dogs are afraid of fire; they must make a morale check when threatened with any fire greater than a torch, and another if injured by it. Other things many dogs are afraid of include loud noises, steep stairs, and unusual monsters (such as undead, for example).
A dog's morale forms the basis for determining if it will obey commands, fall prey to the foibles of the average canine, or in other ways perform as expected. When in doubt, a morale check will be rolled. A pet dog's morale is based off his Cha score (as a retainer).

The following types of dogs are available:
  • Common dog: these are medium and mongrel breeds; they can sometimes be used for herding, or for general warning or animal defense, but are not specially trained. They can learn 1d4+1 commands, if taught.
    Common dogs cost 1 gp; they are AC 8, HD 1, dam 1d4, move 150', morale = base retainer -1
  • Working dog: these are the larger (medium-large) breeds, but without any special training. They can learn 1d4+1 commands, if taught.
    Working dogs cost 5 gp; they are AC 8, HD 1+1, dam 1d4+1, move 180', morale = base retainer -1
  • Hunting dog: these are usually a type of hound, and are trained for tracking and bringing down game animals. Hunting dogs know Track and Fetch, and may learn 1d3 other commands.
    Hunting dogs cost 10 gp; they are AC 8, HD 1+1, dam 1d4+1, move 180', morale = base retainer
  • Guard dog: these are medium-large dogs in the 50-70 lb. range (examples include malamute, rottweiler, boxer, borzoi, weimaraner) that are trained to protect people or areas from intruders. Guard dogs know Stay and Guard, and may learn 1d3 other commands.
    Guard dogs cost 25 gp; they are AC 7, HD 1+2, dam 1d6, move 180', morale = base retainer
  • War dog: these dogs are bred and trained for fighting; they are of the largest breeds (examples include mastiff, bloodhound, great dane, wolfhound), typically over 100 lb.. War dogs know Heel and Attack, and may learn 1d3 other commands.
    War dogs cost 50 gp (when available); they are AC 7, HD 2, dam 1d6+1, move 150', morale = base retainer +1
Training dogs: dogs can be taught new commands by their owner. To teach a dog a new trick requires at least 1 week; the character must then roll 1d20 and add both his Wis and Cha bonuses. If the modified roll is at least 20, the trick has been taught. If not, the character may continue the training, rolling again each week, with a cumulative +1 for each additional week of training (so the 2nd week is at +1, the 3rd at +2, etc).
Dogs can be purchased that have already been trained in some commands; besides the standard commands for dog types, each additional command known adds 15 gp to the value of the dog.

Common dog commands:
  • Fetch: get the thing pointed at; if this is AT ALL ambiguous (if there are multiple objects you are pointing towards), the dog will fetch the most familiar, or I will roll randomly for what the dog fetches.
  • Stay: the dog will remain where it is until the master releases it; the duration of a stay is base 10 minutes; after that, there is a 10% cumulative chance per 10 minutes that the dog will break command, and either go in search of the master, or resume normal doggy activities. This command is also good to calm a dog that might otherwise be inclined to bark, attack, or run.
    Dogs who DO NOT know this command cannot be relied upon to stay put for more than 1 round without something to keep them there.
  • Heel: the dog will follow along with the master, without need of a leash; while it might need occasional reminders, this command can be kept in effect constantly. This command may be broken if there are clear and urgent reasons for the dog to leave...to pursue prey, to attack an aggressor, etc; a morale check will determine.
    Dogs who DO NOT know this command will need to be kept leashed, or they may run off at any time and return haphazardly.
  • Guard: the dog will stay in place, and not allow anyone to approach within 30'; if they do, it will bark first, then attack if the intruder does not withdraw. It will not pursue if they withdraw.
  • Track: the dog will find either a specific scent (if given a sample object), or the strongest scent in the area, and follow that scent trail.
  • Attack: the dog will attack the thing/creature pointed at; if this is at all ambiguous, I will roll randomly for target. The dog will continue to fight until it is called off or fails morale.
    Dogs who DO NOT know this command will fight only in self-defense, or sometimes in defense of their master.
  • Home: the dog will return to its designated home area, and remain in that general area (doing typically doggy things) until its master returns, or hunger or other factors drive it to leave.
  • Haul: the dog will carry burdens, either in panniers/packs or by dragging a travois or sled. Teams of dogs all trained to Haul can work in tandem.
    Dogs who DO NOT know this command will try to shake off or bite off burdens, and may whine and refuse to haul.
    A working, hunting, or guard dog can carry 30 lb. or haul 75 lb. without undue difficulty; burdens twice as heavy can be managed, at reduced speeds, although not for extended periods. Over a short distance, a dog can haul as much as 300 lb. A war dog can manage 50% greater loads.
HORSES
Coming soon

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